Kiwi Roaming

Adjusting to being in Spain has been interesting language wise when we’d just mastered the basics in Portuguese. We left Hotel Glasgow later than planned and headed off up the road again.

Today we were walking from Viladesuso to just south of Ramallosa – 14km according to the spreadsheet (keep that in mind later).

Yesterday the Camino provided, today it was cruel! sending us on wee detours up or down hills to walk around villages then returning us to the road for another stretch on the cycleway. Other pilgrims figured this one out and we noticed – especially when high up on hillsides – folks walking along the flat by the sea following the road instead of the Camino path. Our first stop was at a camp ground cafe which told us it was the last stop for 14km where we had drinks, refilled our waters, got a stamp and used their services.

Stamps – I should tell you about stamps! At the end of Camino Santiago you can get a certificate of completion called a Compostela ie a certificate, to achieve this you need to get stamps along the way. There are new rules in 2025 that you must get 2 x stamps per day for the last 100km. Clearly this is a way to get us to spend money along the way, you can collect a stamp from your accommodation, from some (but not all) cafe’s and from some (but not all) shops. We have been trying to get 2 x stamps per day the whole time but do need to step it up soon.

Today we passed our half way mark – it took a while to find the 140km sign but we celebrated with a selfie and short water break. Soon after this we walked through the remnants of the recent forrest fires, our first reaction was the smell which was ever present, then noticing just how close the fires came to houses was quite shocking. Imogen saw a dog skeleton at one stage, all very sad and lucky we are walking now a few weeks after the fires were so very present here.

The Camino took us up an old roman path through the hills, you could still see the tracks made be early wagons but my knees hated this – steep up and down hill on smooth stone, picking our steps so carefully. Then after this grueling trek we emerged into the top of a wee village and an oasis appeared – a tiny cafe in a persons house! yay. This was our best experience of the Camino so far, yummy sandwiches with Tomatoes from his own garden, iced tea, clean toilets and such a welcome break.

From here the downhill into the village was steep, followed by a lovely walk back beside the water again with a nice breeze today. Baiona looks like a fabulous town and was here we had planned to stay – but we couldn’t find the perfect place so were booked another 4km on at Hotel Arce. The walk took us along a well used boardwalk and around a beautiful bay, it was that time of the evening when people walk their dogs, kids and old people so was very busy.

Hotel Arce – the cute hotel beside a church lived up to the reviews and photos. We entered and the English owner thought he would be hilarious and speak at us in Spanish until we reacted accordingly – then his english accent came out and equally interesting sense of humour. Our family room was spacious and Imogen was suitably segregated from us at one end with the bathroom in between us. This was the first hotel we have stayed in which had bathroom accessories including some wonderful cooling gel for our feet and nice smelling shampoo and moisturiser. Civilised.

We were planning to go out for dinner but Steve and Imogen went to the Froize (supermarket) directly across the road instead and yummy bagels, salmon, salad leaves, tomatoes and hummus came back with them, an excellent meal and another early night.

Steps 32,960 or 21.63km (the spreadsheet foiled us again)……